***Ask An Herbalist-What kinds of makeup are safe?

Q. I attended your seminar in Virginia, and you talked about the impact of estrogen in cosmetics. What exactly should I look for, and what kinds of makeup are safe?

A. The compounds found in cosmetics are more correctly called zeno-estrogens, which means "false" or estrogen-like. Most of these are petroleum-based chemicals used as emulsifiers, texturizers, pigments, and preservatives. Look for things like mineral oil, PEG (usually followed by a number from 10 to 100), propylene glycol, stearates, ect. These compounds have a similar molecular "tail" to estrogens, and are capable of interacting with estrogen receptors in the body in a completely unordered way , of course. They can also be easily absorbed into the blood stream through the skin, bypassing the protection of the liver on the first trip through the body. (More information can be found in Dr. John R. Lee's book, What Your Doctor May Not Tell You About Menopause.) In effect, they become like a full face hormone patch-creating utter chaos in the endocrine system. (While I certainly don't recommend it, it would be safer to eat most cosmetics, than to wear them.) Some of the conditions that I believe can be at least partially traced to the effect of these chemicals include irregular or excessively heavy menstruation, early onset of peri-menopausal symptoms, and even infertility. Liver cleansing herbs, particularly Burdock or Yellow Dock, can help clear the metabolized residues from the body once their intrusion has been stopped.

If the truth were told, there are few things more becoming to a person-man or woman-than healthy, vibrant, glowing, CLEAN skin. If a tiny fraction of the money spent in our culture for ego-pumping "war paint" was spent instead on products that actually maintain the health of the skin and its internal support system instead of covering up its problems, we would be a far more beautiful society. Sadly, that's not a terribly realistic goal in this day and age. There are even circumstances when the need for a little camouflage or enhancement may be justified, but the cosmetics used should be free of these ubiquitous offending compounds.

Currently, the best choice seems to be the growing class of "pure mineral" dusting pigments. My wife's favorite is from Jane Iredale. Another company is Bare Minerals. I'm sure there are more. Interestingly, the reflective nature of many of the minerals used in these make-up lines may actually help protect the skin from sun damage more than even some of the highly touted-and highly occlusive-petroleum based sunscreen products on the market.